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Delta 36-820 Special Edition 10Delta Unifence | List Price: $3,172.34
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Brand: Delta
Binding: Tools & Hardware
Features: - 3-hp, 1-phase induction motor for powerful cutting
- Blade tilts 45 degrees to the right for bevel cutting
- Heavy-duty trunnions and precision-ground arbor for a lifetime of accuracy
- Optional table board and shelf (pictured) are sold separately
- Two-year limited warranty on machines, parts, and accessories
Wonderful Table Saw! [Posted on 2005-08-01]
I've owned a Delta 34-829 10" 3 HP Tilting Arbor Unisaw with 52" Delta Unifence since 1989. The only differences I can see between my saw and the 36-820 Special Edition is the newer model has a better switch, and my fence guide-bar is black.
I've used my Delta table saw hundreds of times and have found it to be an outstanding tool. The cast-iron main table and two cast-iron side-wings are still perfectly flat (although not highly polished like the Powermatic model 66 table saw).
The 3 HP motor is a total powerhouse. When doing heavy-duty cutting, the motor never bogs down, or even slows down -- there are two V-belts to keep the blade turning. Tough work will go into the blade at a slower speed, but just push harder. Unless you run a production shop, there is no need to buy the 5 HP unit (which needs 3-phase service anyway). You'll need a 220-volt outlet for this tool.
If you can afford it and have the room in your shop, get a 52" cabinet grade table saw. With it, there's virtually no wood size you won't be able to handle. E.g., you can even rip a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood in half (at the 48" point) with this saw. The right hand table area is perfect to double as a router table. Not as good as a shaper, but less expensive and it takes no additional shop space. If you have less than a huge shop, put the table saw on a wheeled stand. I roll mine in place to use it, and then roll it back against the wall when done.
Getting the fence parallel to the blade took some time initially, as I recall, but I've never had to realign it in 16 years of use. E.g., wood never binds because the fence isn't parallel to the blade. The fence is so accurate and perfectly flat on all sides; there is no need to mark the wood to be cut. A ruler is adhered to the guide-rail and that's what you use to determine where to lock the fence. Simply put the red line from the fence locking assembly on the exact place on the ruler, and cut. The wood is the right width, every time.
I have no complaints with the Unifence. It's amazing that it has stayed in perfect alignment for 16 years. It never warps, bends, or twists. Unlike other fence systems, you can slide the fence forward or backward on the fence locking assembly, before tightening the fence in place. I find that useful, for example, when an anti-kickback device is attached to the fence and it gets in the way of the blade guard. It's also useful if you want extra fence length forward or backward, for control purposes. Simply unscrew two knobs and slide the fence into the desired position, then tighten the knobs. The fence shape is ideal for attaching kickback devices that clamp on because the aluminum is 1/8" thick and there is a large flat area the length of the fence that is ideal for this purpose.
The fence can be attached vertically (normal), or horizontally (flat) to the locking mechinism. In the flat position, the fence part that touches the wood is only 1/2" high, versus 3 ½", when the fence is vertical. This is advantageous if the blade is tilted towards the fence and you need the fence close to the blade (i.e., when a high fence would impede the saw guard or blade), or, if part of the side of the work to be cut pokes out, assuming that part will ride above the 1/2" high fence (e.g., as in laminate work). I don't use this often, but it's a nifty feature of the Unifence. To move the fence to the left of the blade, loosen those two knobs, flip the fence end over end, and mount it on the right (instead of the left) of the fence locking assembly. Pull up on the locking mechanism's handle and the fence is easily removable from the saw to move it to the left, or, to get it out of the way (e.g., if using the "router table"). Like all top-of-the-line fences, the Unifence firmly locks into place with a single handle and the fence mechanism rides on a single guide rail. You cannot do precision table saw work without a perfectly accurate fence. The Unifence fills that bill.
My Unisaw's 4" dust port is connected to a 3 HP dust collection system. I don't use the Delta blade guard that came with the saw -- made my own out of 3/16" polycarbonate. Mine has three advantages over Delta (and most other) blade guards. My saw guard:
1. Is stronger, since it's thicker material
2. Prevents sawdust from flying out the front of it since it has piece of polycarbonate blocking that path
3. Has an airtight 3" hose port facing to the rear (tilted 11 degrees up from the table) on top of the guard. A 3" flexible hose is connected to the dust collection system. Between the 3" vacuum hose on top and the 4" vacuum hose underneath, almost all sawdust is sucked away.
About the only mechanical negative on the Delta, is that the blade raising/lowering and tilting mechanisms binds slightly at the end of their travel (unlike the Powermatic 66, which is better in this regard).
Table saws are amongst the most dangerous shop tools, along with radial arm saws. You can be seriously hurt, or even lose a body part if careless. In addition, on certain types of cuts, if you don't use an anti-kickback device, the blade can hurl a piece of wood backwards at great speed. To keep from being distracted, I always work alone, with no radio or TV going.
In spite of this being a professional grade cabinet saw, if the shop burned down tomorrow, I'd consider buying a Saw Stop brand table saw, (Sawstop dot com), because its blade stops instantly if it comes in contact with your hand or fingers. (I understand that Delta, Powermatic, and General declined to reengineer their table saws to include this safety feature.)
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