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Home >> Saws >> Circular Saws Home >> Saws Home >> Construction Tools Porter-Cable 743K 7-1/4-Inch, 15 Amp Framers Saw with Carrying Case (Blade on Left)
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The Best Circular Saw On The Market [Posted on 2003-08-09] Time Will Tell [Posted on 2003-10-30] College Woodworker [Posted on 2003-12-22] The main thing that sets this saw apart from the rest is the magnesium plate. Pick up any other brand and you'll find the bases are usually warped (even if they aren't, just one drop and they will be). The porter cable bases are straight everytime and are stronger than any other brand. The porter cable bases also slide accross materials very smoothly, other brands often catch on imperfections in the wood, not the porter cable. I use my saw for precise rips and crosscuts (because I can't fit a table saw in my shop) so I need accurate and consistant cuts, this saw comes through everytime. I recommend buying a clampdown fence if you'll be doing a lot of rips and bevels that require table saw like accuracy, plus it's nice for routing and a host of other uses. My only minor gripe is not with the tool itself. The case pretty lame. It's fine if you just want to store the tool in a safe place, but if you're doing any job-site toating you might want to invest in something that can fit your saw and it's accessories (like another blade) into one case. I also recommend getting a Freud Diablo 40 tooth blade if you care about making clean cuts. The blade that mine came with is not bad, I use it to cut joists, decking, sheets, or whatever else that doesn't need a super clean cut. Freud makes my favorite blades and this one cuts like butter. It's also got thin kerfs (though it's still very very strong) so it takes less of your wood with it. Perfect match for this saw, rips purple heart and iron wood with ease. I'd recommend looking at the 347K as well to see which side you like the blade on better. I thought that I wanted the blade right at first but after cutting a while with both (my work buddies happen to have both models, lucky me) I found that the blade left was actually better for a right hander like me. The bottom line is you can't get a better saw for the money. This tool will be around as long as you're a woodworker (not sure how long if you're a serious framer, but I suspect it would last as long as any saw (including worm-drives) that you can buy). I got mind for ... $$ dollars at Home Depot (20% of all tools christmas sale) and it the best money I ever spent. Buy this saw. Five Stars. Great saw AND great case [Posted on 2004-02-14] CASE - The reason I'm writing this review is that some other reviewers have commented about the case, that it's too small and doesn't have room for accessories like extra blades, the rip fence, and the dust bag... I say, please take another look. The folks at Porter Cable didn't make a great saw, only to have a mental lapse when designing the case. Perhaps the case design is just a bit too clever, and the otherwise great manual didn't give any clues as to how to get everything to fit. So, here goes: Let's assume you have the saw, along with an extra blade or two, the rip fence, and the dust bag, all out of the case. Here's how to get them to easily fit: 1) Blades - Notice the small post in the bottom of the case. It's 5/8" dia., just like it should be for blades, and about 1/3" tall --- good for storing at least two blades. Put the blades on the post. 2) Saw - Put the saw in its normal place, sitting on the left and right "ramps" in the case bottom. Now, the saw holds the blades in place, so they can't get tossed around in there and nick the power cord. 3) Stuff the power cord into the space behind the hand grip of the saw, and to the right of the motor housing. 4) Rip fence - Place the rip fence horizontally across the motor housing, with the "T" end to the left, and the long bar toward the power cord. It's okay if one of the ends at the "T" points upward, because the lid has clearance for it when it's closed. 5) Dust bag - Roll up the bag aound its internal wire frame, just like rolling up a windowshade. Then place the bag in the case, right along the front edge of the saw, between the case handle and the blade arbor. Orient the elbow end of the bag toward the left, so that it "turns the corner" around the dust chute end of the saw. Finally, the right end of the wire frame will need to be "tucked" into place inside the rim of the case bottom (bends the wire just slightly; don't worry, it snaps right back). 6) Close the case lid. If everything is in place, nothing binds at all as the lid closes. Well, if it sounds complicated, just do it once; it isn't. -Took me less than 20 seconds on my first try, and I wasn't even hurrying. True, it would be nice if the case came with metal latches like Porter-Cable's Tiger Saw case. But, if the plastic latches ever break, I'll just cut them away and put metal latches on the case from a hardware store. I like the high impact plastic case better than a metal one, because it absorbs shock better if dropped, and doesn't scratch up my truck bed and tool box, which would then begin rusting. Though I have the largest WeatherGuard saddle-style box, there's still only so much room in there, so the compact case helps. Also, the storage of the blade wrench in the saw's handle is a nice touch. Bottom line - The P-C 743K saw and case have been refined to near perfection, especially for the money, which is why I give them 5 stars. Light Weight, Great Balance [Posted on 2004-03-18] I also picked up a dust bag and was surprised at how well it worked. It's a little annoying hanging out there but it really catches a lot of dust (nice for working inside people's houses). Click here for more details and discount information...
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